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Lotte De Haan

Salaula: The International Trade of Donated Second-hand Clothing to Zambia

The trade in donated second-hand clothes from the west to Africa is worth $5 billion per year, transforming 8 billion kilos of unwanted garments into a new commodity.

Salaula is a Zambian word meaning selecting by rummaging through a pile. The country's booming Salaula markets have pushed out local textile and fashion businesses, which are unable to compete with second-hand imports and cheap clothing from China.

Lotte de Haan investigates the shifting value of clothing waste, from the collection, sorting and compressing of textiles in the west to their reinvention in Zambia's city market. Collaborating with a variety of vendors, from wholesalers to clothing pickers and tailors, she has created a series of sunshades that together represent the global geography of the used clothing market.

Credits:
Tailors
David, Kabaso, Mwepia, Dorothy Chikwemba

Salaula Vendors
Abel Chipoya, David, Rabson, Golden, Imano

Models
Nana, Beenzu, Lombe Jenny, Akakandelwa, Esther, Ngosa

Lusaka Dumpsite
Mr Chikwemba

Ministry of Commerce, Trade and Industry Zambia
Mr M. Ngosa, Industry Department

Movement for African Unity

Global Youth Platform
Mutetelenu Kalama

Photography
Bichriphoto

Clothing collection and sorting
Sympany, Leger Des Heils - reshare, Wieland Textiel

Welding
Adam Bialek

Copyright Design Academy Eindhoven

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Copyright: Design Academy Eindhoven